Abbey of Saint Victor, Marseille
Originally founded in the 5th century by Jean Cassien, the Abbey of Saint Victor is a minor basilica in Marseille named after local soldier saint and martyr Victor of Marseilles who was killed by the Romans in 290 AD at this spot.
Originally founded in the 5th century by Jean Cassien, the Abbey of Saint Victor is a minor basilica in Marseille named after local soldier saint and martyr Victor of Marseilles who was killed by the Romans in 290 AD at this spot. Destroyed by the Saracens in the 8th-9th century, it was rebuilt in 1200 and became a powerful religious centre in the late Middle Ages. It declined in importance in the 16th century and was ransacked in 1794 during the French Revolution secularization. Thereafter, the church was used as a hay warehouse, prison and barracks before being restored in the 19th century. While the monastery has been lost, the extant church is still an interesting place to explore.
The various parts of the Romanesque complex are from different periods. The imposing structure has several crenellated towers and sturdy fortification walls. The entrance to the upper church is through the portal in the Tower of Isarn, named after 11th century abbot Saint Isarn. Inside, the porch has a Carrara marble sarcophagus decorated with strigils from the 4th – 5th century discovered during excavations. The main altar of stone and bronze is supported by 2 legs with four statues each – one with Saint Victor, Saint Peter, Saint Paul, and Saint Cassian, while the other has St. John the Baptist, Urban V, St. Lazarus, and St. Mary Magdalene . The apse has the remains of the funerary monument carved in 1372 for Pope Urban V.
The Romanesque nave with 4 bays and Gothic aisles with ribbed vaulting dates back to the 13th century. At the end of the bays is the organ, next to which is a statue of Our Lady of Wisdom. Behind it is the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, which has a Paleochristian white marble altar from the 5th century. The front edge of the table has carved doves flanking the emblem of Christ, while the back edge has sheep instead of doves.
Across the nave is the Chapel of the Holy Spirit with a monolithic curbstone from Saint-Remy de Provence which is used as a font. It also contains Lorimy Delarozière's tapestry depicting the Holy Spirit. The next bay has a tapestry depicting the Apocalypse, and a beautiful travertine sarcophagus with reliefs of the Sacrifice of Abraham. Also of note are the stained glass windows, and a statue of St. Victor sculpted by Richard Van Rhijn in the keystone above the chancel.
The crypt is a cavernous maze housing a series of early Christian tombs and sarcophagi. Its major highlight is the martyrium which has a Black Madonna, the Notre-Dame de la Confession. The 12th century walnut wood figure of crowned and veiled Virgin Mary with infant Jesus on her lap plays a central role in the church's Candlemas celebrations on 2nd February every year when it is adorned with a green cloak and paraded to crowds. The martyrium also has the Sarcophagus of Saint-Cassien and tomb of the Saints Chrysante and Darie.
The 13th century rock-cut Chapel of Saint-Mauront chapel has the sarcophagus of Saint Maurice, his companions, and the 7 Sleepers of Ephesus. The Chapel of Saint-Isarn has the tombstone of the Abbot Isarn, the epitaph of Hugh of Glazinis , and the sarcophagi of St. Eusebius and companions of St. Ursula. The Chapel of Saint-Andre has relics of a Greek Cross of Saint Andrew, and a funerary inscription of Bishop Lazarus. The Chapel of Saint-Lazare has the sarcophagus of the Holy Innocents, and reliefs of Mary Magdalene. The sacristy houses a notable collection of artifacts, including the epitaph of Volusianus and Fortunatus, sarcophagus of Anastasis, sarcophagus of Christ Enthroned, sarcophagus with allegorical depictions of sheep and deer, 2nd century pagan funerary stele, and statue of Saint Elzéar of Sabran. The crypt also has several columns and mosaics that are worth seeing.
Admission to the complex is free, while entry to the crypts is €2.00. Guided tours of the complex are available on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 4 pm to 6 pm.
